Pruning Techniques for Healthy Growth

Pruning is an essential technique for maintaining the health and shaping the growth of trees, shrubs, vines, and other plants. Proper pruning encourages plants to grow vigorously, produce abundant flowers and fruit, and have an aesthetically pleasing form. This comprehensive guide covers the key pruning techniques for nurturing robust, productive plants.

Why Prune Plants?

Pruning serves several important purposes:

• Promotes plant health – Removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches prevents spread of infection. Pruning opens up the plant’s structure to increase air circulation and light penetration.
• Controls growth – Cutting back excessive growth helps keep plants compact and manageable. It prevents leggy, weak growth.
• Shapes plants – Pruning controls shape by selectively removing branches. It can be used to enhance a plant’s natural form.
• Increases flowering and fruiting – Cutting back lateral shoots encourages growth of flower buds. Removing some flowers/fruit leads to larger, higher quality yields.
• Rejuvenates overmature plants – Hard pruning or cutting plants back to main branches or the ground stimulates new vigorous growth.
• Improves plant quality – Pruning produces strong, healthy plants with well-placed, shapely branches.

Timing of Pruning

Pruning time depends on the pruning objective, type of plant, species, growth habit, and season:

• Spring – Prune spring-flowering shrubs right after flowering. Prune evergreens, vines, roses, and fruit trees in early spring before growth starts.
• Summer – Prune plants that bloom on current season’s growth immediately after flowering. prune back hedges and limit growth.
• Fall – Ideal time to prune trees, late blooming shrubs, vines, and evergreens. Avoid pruning maples and birches as they bleed sap.
• Winter – Prune deciduous trees, shrubs, roses, vines, and fruit trees while dormant. Exceptions are maples, birches, walnuts, and other bleeders.

Avoid pruning during growth spurts, just before or during flowering, during very hot/dry weather, or when plants are under stress.

Pruning Equipment

Having the right pruning tools makes the job easier and helps avoid damage to plants. Essential pruning equipment includes:

• Bypass pruners – For cutting stems less than half inch diameter.makes clean cuts without crushing.
• Loppers – Long handled pruners for cutting branches up to 2 inches diameter.
• Hedge shears – Manual or electric shear with long blades for trimming hedges and shrubs.
• Pole pruners – Pruning shears or saw on an extension pole for reaching high branches.
• Pruning saw – For cutting large branches. Various types like bow saw, folding saw.
• Chainsaw – For cutting very thick branches. Gas or electric powered.

It’s critical to keep all pruning tools clean and sharp. Regular cleaning and sharpening increases efficiency and minimizes damage to plants. Disinfect pruning tools between plants to prevent spread of disease.

Making Proper Pruning Cuts

Where and how pruning cuts are made is critical for fast wound closure and healthy plant growth. Follow these guidelines:

• Make pruning cuts just above an outward facing healthy bud or branch. The bud or branch should form the desired outward growth pattern.
• Cut at a 45 to 60 degree angle, 1⁄4 inch above the bud, to promote drainage and healing. Avoid flush cuts.
• Clean cuts seal over faster than jagged cuts. Use sharp, clean, and sterilized pruning tools.
• When removing a branch, cut back to the branch collar without leaving a stub. Don’t cut the branch flush with the trunk.
• Use the three-cut method for removing large branches: Undercut 12 inches away to prevent bark tearing, cut down from the top to remove the branch, then cut at the branch collar.
• For trees, prune back to lateral branches at least one-third the diameter of the removed branch to discourage shoots.
• Avoid topping trees or removing too much inner growth as this can harm tree structure. Always have specific purpose and goals when pruning trees.

Pruning Techniques for Different Plants

Pruning strategies vary by plant type:

Deciduous Trees

• Prune in winter when dormant, except for maple and birch bleeders.
• Remove dead, diseased, broken branches anytime.
• Limit pruning to maintain natural form, unless rejuvenating or severely correcting structure.
• Make thinning cuts to open up canopy to light.
• Don’t remove lower branches unless they interfere with traffic or buildings.
• Remove sucker growth around base and on trunk.

Evergreen Trees

• Prune in early spring before new growth emerges.
• Remove dead/diseased branches. Cut back to live collar.
• Shape lightly if needed to control size and density. Don’t over thin interior branches.
• Don’t prune back sides of trees. Foliage should remain at branch tips.

Shrubs

• Prune summer/fall bloomers in early spring before budding.
• Prune spring bloomers right after flowering.
• Remove oldest, tallest canes all the way to the ground to encourage new basal growth.
• Thin out and head back overgrown shrubs.
• Shape and contain shrubs any time. Shear formal hedges.

Roses

• Prune bush and shrub roses in early spring when buds swell.
• Remove dead, diseased canes to the soil level.
• Cut 1/3 to 1/2 of older canes to the ground.
• Head back long canes, leave some lateral branches.
• Cut hybrid tea roses back, leaving 4 to 6 buds per cane.

Vines

• Prune immediately after flowering or fruiting.
• Cut back side shoots and laterals to the main frame.
• Remove excess growth to keep size in bounds.
• Thin vine structure for light and air penetration.
• Cut off unwanted stems at their point of origin or the main trunk.

Fruit Trees

• Prune in late winter when buds are dormant.
• Remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches.
• Thin for open shape to allow light penetration and air flow.
• Limit pruning to maintain natural form of tree.
• Cut back leaders by 1/3 to 1/2 to encourage branching for more fruiting.

Pruning Young Trees

It’s important to prune young trees early on to train their growth pattern:

• Prune central leader trees like pines lightly to remove only badly placed branches. This maintains the leader.
• Prune young open center trees like pecans and peaches more heavily. Cut back lateral branches by half and remove growth competing with the leader.
• Remove narrow, V-shaped branch forks on young trees that can split later with weight. Choose wider, U-shaped branch attachments.
• Shape the lower scaffold branches but leave some branches all the way down the trunk for tapered form.
• Head back top part of leader by 1/3 to encourage lower branching and develop framework.

Properly training young trees while establishing proper structure avoids many issues later on.

Rejuvenation Pruning Overgrown Plants

Overgrown, neglected plants can be rejuvenated through hard pruning:

Trees – Cut back leaders drastically to lower lateral branches to stimulate vigorous new shoots from the roots and lower trunk.

Shrubs – Cut out 1/3 of the oldest, tallest stems each year over 3 years to renew growth.

Bushes – Cut all stems down to 10-12 inches above the ground to force new shoots from the roots and base.

Vines – Cut back side shoots and laterals to main stems. Remove excess length and density.

Roses – Cut bush types back by 50%. Remove old, unproductive canes of climbing roses.

With rejuvenation pruning, remove all dead wood, then make cuts at appropriate locations depending on the plant. The shock stimulates fresh, youthful new growth.

Pruning for Shape

Pruning and training while plants are young is key to developing a desired shape. But pruning for shape can also be done on established plants:

• Globe – Prune top growth more than lower. Remove lower branches and foliage. Frequent light pruning.
• Espalier – Train branches along support framework. Prune excess growth and train new shoots.
• Topiary – Clip foliage and stems with shears for geometric or animal shapes. Requires frequent light pruning.
• Hedge – Prune sides and top narrow for tight formal hedge. Shear loosely for casual hedge.
• Tree form – Selectively remove lower branches on shrubs or vines, leaving canopy of foliage at top surrounding clean trunk.

Removing unwanted branches and growth while directing the plant’s natural growth pattern achieves the desired shape.

Pruning for Flowering and Fruiting

Targeted pruning at the right times maximizes flowering and fruit production:

• Fruit trees – Thin dense branches for light penetration. Cut back new shoots by 1/2. Remove vertical shoots.
• Shrubs and trees – Remove some spent blooms to direct energy into the remaining flowers.
• Vines – Cut back side shoots and laterals to a few buds to generate fruiting spurs along main canes.
• Roses – Remove faded blooms to encourage reblooming. Cut flowering stems back by 1/3 after peak bloom.

With fruiting plants, also thin overcrowded fruits so remaining ones can grow larger. Balance pruning to maximize fruits, flowers, plant health.

Pruning Neglected Plants

Bringing overgrown, neglected plants under control requires renovation pruning over several seasons:

• Year 1 – Remove dead/diseased wood. Cut oldest, tallest stems down to live growth. Take out 1/3 of branches ruining shape.
• Year 2 – Remove additional old branches and cut back remaining branches by 1/3 to shape plant.
• Year 3 – Final shaping. Regulate remaining branches and head back excess growth.

Thin dense growth for air and light penetration. Limit removal of live wood at one time. Maintain any nice mature specimens. Rejuvenation pruning stimulates new properly placed growth.

Pruning Safety

• Use proper safety gear – gloves, eye protection, sturdy shoes, hard hat for trees.
• Prune within reach from the ground if possible. Otherwise use ladders, pole pruners, or hire professionals.
• Prune trees near power lines only through qualified professionals.Keep area around plants clear of debris.
• Clean and disinfect pruning tools before and after use to prevent spreading disease.
• Check plants for disease before pruning and sterilize tools after cutting any diseased plant matter.
• Never cut branches that are higher than your shoulder height.

Pruning can produce abundant benefits but also poses risks. Staying safe is essential.

Pruning Do’s and Don’ts

Do:

• Prune selectively according to individual plant’s needs
• Make proper pruning cuts
• Time pruning based on goals and plant type
• Disinfect pruners between plants
• Use sharp bypass hand pruners for small branches

Don’t:

• Prune too much at one time
• Leave branch stubs when making cuts
• Apply wound dressings or sealers to pruning cuts
• Prune trees like maples and birches in spring as they will bleed sap
• Use hedge shears on trees or shrubs

Pruning FAQ

Q: When should I prune my plants?

A: The ideal time depends on the plant species, time of bloom, whether it’s deciduous or evergreen. Some general guidelines: Spring bloomers after flowering, summer bloomers in early spring or after bloom, evergreens and vines in early spring.

Q: How much should I prune?

A: As a rule of thumb, prune no more than 1/3 of the plant at one time. Make selective cuts to shape the plant and improve flowering and fruiting. For rejuvenation pruning, can remove more.

Q: Should I prune broken branches?

A: Yes, it’s important to prune out broken, split, or cracked branches as soon as possible. Make clean cut just above outward facing bud or leaf. Leaving damaged branches invites pests and disease.

Q: Do pruning cuts need to be treated?

A: No, don’t use wound paints or pruning sealants which can slow healing. Make proper pruning cuts. For oaks and elms at risk of oak wilt and Dutch elm disease, you can apply latex paint to cut surfaces.

Q: What is the best way to prune overgrown shrubs?

A: Renew overgrown shrubs by cutting out oldest, tallest canes all the way to the ground over successive years to encourage fresh new shoots from the roots and base. Cut 1/3 of old branches each year.

Q: When should I start pruning young trees?

A: Begin pruning and training young trees early on to establish proper structure. For most trees, start pruning year after planting. Exceptions like maples, birches, walnuts should have formative pruning delayed until trees are dormant in late fall to winter.

Proper pruning is vital for keeping trees, shrubs, and other plants healthy and productive. Follow these guidelines for the timing, technique, tools, and cuts for each type of plant. With the right approach to pruning, your landscape will thrive for years to come.